Ginger ale - it gives you wings.

I'm not always a fan of The Oatmeal - sometimes he's kind of a jerk - but this comic [warning: inappropriate language!] is EXACTLY how I feel about ginger ale on planes. I thought I was the only one!

[Okay, okay, these days I also drink a lot of water and some orange juice on planes, but ginger ale is still my traditional plane drink, even though I don't really ever drink it on land.]

Guimarães: mutant butterflies, pineapple popes, and the first king.

A looooong time ago, I went to Guimarães, "the city where Portugal was born" - Alfonso I, the first king of Portugal, was born there.


This wall even says so ["Portugal was born here"], so it must be true.




And here is the king himself!




And a modern version. Looks like a cartoon to me. Not sure the king would be particularly pleased.




This is where he was baptized!




And this is a lone tree in his castle. Poor tree, with no tree buddies. Also, I'm pretty sure those three guys in the other turret are doing a drug deal. A castle is a pretty cool place for a drug deal.




Another view from the castle: I'm a loner, Dottie, a treebel. ...No?




ATTACK OF THE GIANT BUTTERFLY. Also, a view of the city from a beautiful hilltop reached by cable car.




And a statue of a pope who is totally wearing a pineapple on his head.

I went to the Algarve, but I only swam in my own mind.

[Sorry for the long break, those of you who may or may not be checking in...I've had a big project for work and in between have been living life - but the project is done now (!!!), so I have quite a bit more time now.]

After one night in Aveiro recovering from the road trip, I caught a couple trains and a bus down to the Algarve, the southernmost region in Portugal known in particular for its beaches and its British tourists/retirees. But that's not what I was there for.

I'd been interested in trying out meditation for a while, since all the pros sounded really good, and there didn't really seem to be any cons - so might as well try! A friend in the US recommended a ten-day Vipassana course, so when I saw that there would be one in Portugal [courses are offered all over the world] at a time when I could take ten days off work, I decided to jump right in and go for it.

After registering, getting the low-down on the schedule and general rules, and separating into the men's and women's sections of the center, we gathered outside of the meditation hall that first evening for our first meditation session. As we walked in, everybody made sure to say goodbye to everyone else - starting with that first meditation, we were supposed to keep "noble silence" and do our best to work as though we were completely isolated. We weren't even supposed to really look each other in the eye [although, of course, we didn't slam doors shut right in front of someone trying to walk through behind us! - and we could talk to the organizers if there were any problems we needed to discuss and to the teachers about any meditation questions]. Kind of a strange situation, since I only had a chance to talk to a few people before I had to start pretending they didn't exist - I hadn't even met many of the girls I was sharing a large room with.

In a way, though, it was also kind of nice - ten days with one single group of people can be a lot, and it can create a lot of weird situations as far as who you like and who you don't, whose conversation can get a little annoying or boring after a while...when you get to pretend everyone else isn't even there, a lot of social awkwardness disappears, too!

And even though there was nothing "social" about it, it was still an interesting social experiment, seeing what kinds of preconceptions people came up with about people they had spent ten days with but knew nothing about. I certainly had some ideas about what some of the people would be like - some were confirmed, and some of course were not! One of the girls in my room told me she had thought I was probably Dutch.

The food was fairly simple and vegetarian, and I was surprised at how consistently delicious it was - everything tasted really good. And the best part - NO olives or mushrooms [at least cooked into the food...sometimes olives were offered as a side]! Those two tend to be mainstays of vegetarian cooking, and I despise both of them, so I was pretty thrilled.

Now, the meditation itself...was pretty tough for me. We meditated for a total of - are you ready for this? - TEN HOURS every day [starting at 4:30 a.m. and ending at 9 p.m.]. Holy cow [oh, wait, wrong religion - hyuk hyuk hyuk (but also, I should probably mention here that one of the main "selling" points of Vipassana is that it's supposed to be universal and for everyone of any religion or non-religion)]. That's tough on the body and the mind.

Ten hours a day of sitting on the floor, cross-legged or in whatever position is most comfortable, is not easy for us soft Westerners. But! I actually did feel that it got easier after a few days.

What did not get easier was the actual meditation. People often talk about "the monkey brain," and let me tell you, mine was swinging from branch to branch like crazy. I thought about everything, from meta thoughts about meditation and the course itself, to how I could possible cook a Thanksgiving dinner on my own from scratch in Portugal [never mind that Thanksgiving was a good nine months away at the time and I had no idea whether I would even still be in Portugal by then], to how I shouldn't have been allowed to dress myself in middle school [I made some really really terrible fashion choices]. And much much more... It's completely normal to get distracted when you're trying to meditate, but I think I had such a problem with it because at the beginning of each day, my brain was overwhelmed at the thought of ten whole hours, and by the end of the day, it was dealing with burnout.

So although I got a lot of practice in dealing with obstacles with equanimity, which is an important part of Vipassana, by the end of the course I didn't feel as though I had made much overall progress. I wasn't expecting a miracle, of course, but it seemed as though I should've gotten a little "further." When we could talk to each other again, everyone said, "Oh man, wasn't it great? Don't you feel great?!?" And I felt like I disappointed them a bit when I said, "Well...I think I still have to work on it a little more before I can be sure that it's for me." I'm trying not to judge my experience compared to other people's, but I really am not yet completely convinced. Unfortunately, I haven't made much time to keep working on it since I've gotten back to the outside world, but when I do, I think it might actually be better than during the course, because I won't have to deal with the burnout - instead of "Oh man, seriously, more meditation? Haven't I done enough of this already today?!?" I'm hoping my brain will go, "Oooh, a chance to rest and relax - thanks. Don't mind if I do!"

It's one of the things I want to focus on this month, so let's see how it goes!

If you're interested in trying out a ten-day Vipassana course, don't let this discourage you! It's really an individual experience for everyone, and most people who've done it certainly sing its praises. And even if you don't quiiiiite achieve nirvana after ten days, it's still nice to be able to completely step away from the outside world for that time and focus inwards and learn more about yourself. And you meet some really cool people [yes, despite not talking to them for most of the time!]. And hey, just having two meals a day of healthy vegetarian food actually helped me lose a lot of weight!

[But really, do not actually use a Vipassana course as a weight-loss camp! Only do it if you're serious about trying or continuing meditation - if you're not (in fact, even if you are), it can get tough around the middle, when you think about how much time you still have left. Ten days is a lot, guys! (Once they've been doing Vipassana for a while, some people do even longer courses, sometimes for 30 or even 45 days...yikes! I don't know if I could ever handle that...)]

Eurotrip!

I've never actually seen Eurotrip, but this is a roadtrip in Europe, so...title approved, I've decided. And it's probably for the better that Tom Green wasn't involved [okay, I just looked it up, and Tom Green was actually in Road Trip, another movie I haven't seen - either way, it's still good that he wasn't involved, so I'm not retracting my statement].

The point is, all the flights from Germany to Portugal were too expensive for my taste [or they were with the cheapo airlines, which I despise and try to avoid when possible], and I hate flying, and I like seeing the places I'm traveling in. So I looked on a rideshare website [ridesharing is seen as sketchy by a lot of Americans, but in Germany, it's a common and legitimate concept known as Mitfahrgelegenheit], and lo and behold, someone was driving to Portugal and looking for passengers!

From Dresden, I caught a train to Düsseldorf [in fact, that train ride cost almost as much as, if not more than, the trip from Germany to Portugal - Germany, your trains are too expensive!], where I met up with an older gentleman and a younger hippie-ish fellow, both German expats in Portugal.

I slept most of the time, but I woke up for a little bit in Belgium, which was very exciting, because it was my first time in the country - but we never stopped, so I still have yet to actually touch the ground there. Our driver informed us that Belgium hasn't had a working government for a year now and that trees in some of the forests are so full of shrapnel from World War II that saws can't cut through them.

In France, I noticed that Ikea ads use "vous" [the formal "you"] - but in Germany, they use "du" [the informal "you"]. At a simple roadside rest stop, some of the toilets were squat toilets that I'm more used to seeing in Egypt and Cambodia - I didn't know they really had them in Europe.

And all along the highways in France, this hideous restaurant popped up over and over again:


I used the restroom at one, and the door of the women's bathroom featured a majestic American Indian woman dressed in a Davey Crockett-style buckskin suit holding a lasso. Always interesting to see how a country glamorizes another country's native population - or at least uses them to sell burgers at chain restaurants on the side of the highway.


We only stopped occasionally to funnel gas from a container in the trunk into the car [through a hose going over my seat in the back - I was always worried that something would go wrong and I'd have to sit in a puddle of gas for the rest of the trip] - I think because not many gas stations were open in the middle of the night.

Once when we stopped, I asked what the plan was for the night - whether we were going to start looking for a cheap hotel soon. "Oh, no," was the reply. "We're driving through." And indeed we did. The guys shared driving a little bit [I'm not confident enough with driving stick or generally driving in Europe] and we just kept going.

I woke up in Spain when we stopped at a grocery store to grab some breakfast, and then we didn't stop again until we arrived in Coimbra.

And thus concluded my 26-hour journey across western Europe with two strange men! [I wish I had more adventures and fascinating sights to share, but really, I was drifting in and out of crappy car sleep most of the time - so much for seeing more of the European landscape!]

Germany, in snippets.

Freiburg: English-language theatre, celebrating my 25th birthday with poker one night and free ice cream at a Mexican restaurant/bar the next night, being pleased that a friend I encouraged to try OkCupid had found a nice Dutch man there, lunches with past and current bosses [both of whom had offered to let me crash for a few nights when I wasn't sure where I was going to stay - I have the best bosses!], Portuguese-language theatre, running in the Sternwald, having my favorite meal in Freiburg - a baguette and Apfelstrudel from Aspekt - a few times, staying with my flatmate from when I studied abroad there five years ago [!!!], having Badisch tapas [just the right amount of Käsespätzle!] with her and her boyfriend, having Döner a couple times, the memories, oh the memories...

Biberach [near Ulm]: staying with my Brazilian tandem [language exchange] partner, sleeping with two sweatshirts and a hat because her heating left much to be desired, wandering around Biberach with its beautiful Fachwerk...

Berlin: failing to get Berlinale tickets, making ourselves feel better with a wander through the garden of Tacheles [a squat taken over by artists] and awesome Indian food...

Dresden: being tired and sick and not really interested in doing anything, but managing to meet Jöbin at the university for lunch [salad with tuna - I learned something at that fitness holiday!] and walk back across town [photos below], lots of movies...






The last time I was in Dresden, with my scouts, the Frauenkirche [destroyed in the war] was still being rebuilt - this time, it was all done.




Other side of the Frauenkirche.







For some reason I've always remembered this mural from when I was there with the scouts, so I was pleased to stumble upon it again.

Back to Weiz: babysitting in Steirisch.

Forgot this little episode: the last night I was there, Ali was supposed to babysit two boys, but she was a bit under the weather, so Michi and I took over.

Oh man - the name "Beth" is difficult enough for a lot of non-native speakers, what with the "th" and everything, but when you're six and have no experience with English whatsoever, all you can really do when you hear it is stare and say, "Huh?!?" The two of them started playing around with it and eventually settled on calling me Zuckerbess [Sugar Bess] and giggling madly. Michi and I had no idea what that meant or why it was so hilarious...oh, to be an easily amused kid again!

Also, when you're just a kid and you speak Steirisch, the regional dialect, and everyone else speaks Steirisch, and then along comes a foreigner speaking standard German...after a while, the younger boy just looked at me and said, "I versteh di net [I don't understand you]!" I was a little delighted, though, because it meant I could practice my Steirisch without feeling silly and having people go, "Aw, cute, look at the foreigner trying to speak our dialect!"

He still didn't always understand me, though, and at one point he said something about me to Michi and then added, "Sie versteht mi eh net [she doesn't understand me, anyway]!" Oh, darling. Just because you don't understand me doesn't mean I don't understand you [a lesson already learned by thousands of travelers who have started talking about someone else on the bus in their native language, only to have that person turn around and lay into them in that language].

Malta: Valletta.

Although I was in Sliema, a completely different city, it didn't take that long - a couple hours - to reach Valletta, the capital city, by foot one afternoon. That area of the island is pretty densely populated, and one city blends into the next.

A lot of the pictures from the previous post were from the walk there; here are a few from Valletta itself.









A lot of the churches in Malta are lined with lightbulbs - I never saw them actually lit up, though.




The main shopping street.



Malta. Why? Why not?!?

When my host family asked when I was going to leave Austria and what my next destination was, I just shrugged and said, "I don't know yet." And they burst out laughing and shook their heads and gave me that "oh, you" look that they tend to give me a lot. But it was true - after Austria and before Germany, I had about ten days where I had no particular plans, no one to see, nowhere to be...so I went online and looked up last-minute deals.

And I found Malta! And I thought, "Malta! I've never been there! Hell, I've barely even heard of it." And I booked ten days in a hotel in Malta with roundtrip airfare from Munich, including transfers from the airport to the hotel and back [on STA Travel, which by the way I love, because it has a lot of great deals if you're a student and/or under 26 but sometimes even if you're not].

Okay, I'll admit it - I was pretty lame in Malta. I had a lot of work to do [certainly not complaining about that, though - these days, I always welcome work!] and the travel-weariness continued, so I didn't see nearly as much as I could have. But I went on some runs and long walks, so I still got to see a lot of the area right around me [I was based in Sliema], and I went to a CouchSurfing event, which gave me a taste of the nightlife.

Maybe it was partly because I didn't explore as much as I could have, but I could never quite put my finger on Malta - an acrchipelago in the Meditarranean 57 miles south of Sicily that won its independence from the UK in 1974 - and its culture. It's very southern European / Mediterranean in a lot of ways, but there's still something very different about it, perhaps because of the mix of British and northern African influences. And the language! Maltese is actually related to Arabic, with a heavy sprinkling of words from Romance languages and some English. Cool!

Either way, when I wasn't working, I had a great time - the weather was spring-like [I've been really spoiled this winter...], I tried the rabbit and ravioli and local beer and wine, I met some fun people, I ran along the Mediterranean, I learned a little more about a country I had known next to nothing about... I'd definitely like to go back some time when I have more time and energy to explore more.

The only thing I was kind of disappointed about was the lack of bicycling culture there. I saw a couple of people cycling, but that was it. Malta has the fourth highest automobile density in Europe - so things are really made for cars, not bikes. I had hoped to rent a bike and go around the whole island maybe, but the people I asked about the possibility weren't very encouraging. Sad!

And finally: please no Malteser jokes. They get them all the time, and I don't like malted milk balls. Thank you for your consideration.




A sign about a sign.





















Questions in blog posts [watch out, this is going to get meta!].


What do you think about this comic? Let me know in the comments!

Weiz: Austrian prom and baaaaabyyyyyy.

For those of you who don't know [and if you don't...who are you and why are you here?!? just joshin', strangers are welcome here!], I spent my junior year of high school [2001-02] with a host family in Austria. Ten years later, they're probably regretting that decision, because they can't get rid of me. Weddings, the occasional Christmas, if I hear my host mom's making my favorite meal [Kaiserschmarrn!]...I drop by a lot.

This time I had two reasons: the younger of my two host sisters, Ali, was having her Maturaball, which is kind of like prom and graduation mixed together and multiplied by a thousand in terms of awesomeness; and the older one, Michi, had a baby last year! I had to meet my host nephew.



The entrance to Ali's school - the globe and Technikerball sign [she goes to a school with a technical focus] are for the event. A Maturaball [the Matura is the graduation exam in Austria] is like prom in that everyone dresses up fancy [well, I didn't dress up for my prom, but that's a different story] and dances; it's like graduation in that it's an event for the whole family and community, not just the graduates. And it's a thousand times more awesome because they usually decorate the whole school, and sometimes quite elaborately - not just a few streamers and silver balloons in the school gym where earlier that week you were getting hit in the face in dodgeball. They have several different bars [yes, with alcohol - yes, at a school function!] in various classrooms and areas with different kinds of music - in some places DJs and in others live bands. There's a restaurant. And it all goes on until 4 or 5 in the morning.




With Ali [the female graduates usually all wear white dresses - makes me feel like I'm attending several weddings at once] and Michi by the champagne bar. It was getting late by this point - we were all feeling a bit rough!




My host nephew Georg, who, I can say with complete honesty, is one of the most adorable babies I have ever met. I'm very lucky to have so many adorable babies in my life - and the luckiest part of that is that they're all other people's!




Around Weiz: Weizbergkirche, the church at the top of the hill in town. More importantly, right next door to my favorite bar, Luis [the bar's not quite as picturesque, though]. Luis, apparently, is also the only café-type-thing [besides McDonalds] in the entire town with wifi. Guess that concept hasn't really hit small-town Austria yet.

Prague: a post in which there is not a single "Czech" pun.

After I had lost a few pounds and inches, it was off to winter - I mean, Prague. At least Czech food is perfect for cold weather. Mmmmm, goulash and dumplings [pretty sure I didn't keep those pounds and inches off for long...].




Statue on the Charles Bridge.




YES.

And also...why?!?

But mostly...YES.

And also...check out that creepy face in the bottom left of the back window. Not sure what that's about.




Czech National Museum, Wenceslas Square. [The name of the square always makes me think of Hugh Grant and his chauffeur in Love Actually. I'm such a philistine.]




A German member of the Prague CouchSurfing community offered to give me a little tour one afternoon. One of the points of interest was the oldest rotunda church [not sure of the technical name] in Prague and one of the oldest in the country overall.




We went to a cemetery where a lot of rich and/or famous Czech people are buried - some of the graves are really ornate. I asked whether Václav Havel was buried there, thinking to myself, "Yesssss, I may be from the US, but look, I know some things about other countries!" [Never mind that I mostly know him from the passing mention in the musical Rent...] He said, "Well, he probably will be, but he's still alive." Oh. I was slightly embarrassed. He tried to make me feel better by adding, "But I'm sure he won't be alive much longer!" Well...thanks!




A view from near the cemetery.




An art nouveau building, including windows spelling out PRAHA.




Art in the public library, made of books.




With mirrors inside at the top and bottom to make it look as though the books go on forever. Heaven? I think so.




Old Town Square.



As already mentioned, the good CouchSurfing times continued in Prague - besides the personal tour, I met up with a French/German guy and a Brazilian girl to go to karaoke [mostly expats, but a few real Czech people, too] and went to the weekly German conversation meeting. I don't think I'll ever stop loving CS!

In Andalucía, Wisconsin = Timbuktu?

Most of you have already seen me mention this on facebook, but...one day I was out on a bike ride with David, one of our local guides, and when I mentioned where I was from he said, "Oh! You know, here in southern Spain, we use Wisconsin to say that something is very far away."

Example 1 [except imagine it in Spanish]: "Man, he kicked that ball all the way to Wisconsin!"

Example 2: "I don't want to go all the way to that bar - it's in Wisconsin!"

He said they use it because "it sounds funny and it's far away."

I think this is pretty amazing, but I forgot to confirm with a few other Andalucians, and it just seems too awesome to be true - if anyone reading this has heard Wisconsin used this way, in Spain or elsewhere, please do let me know!

Hm, maybe I should ask about it at Language Log...

Antequera: nature [2]!

hike around El Torcal, an area with limestone formations



Spanish ibex!



Majestic!




Antequera: nature [1]!

hike around El Chorro










===

bike ride around...um...another area